Been here a month now – the halfway point – and am settling into my best self.
I so love the food in Mexico – it’s fresh, local, varied, and delicioso! Some people come here to take a break from their normal lives and love eating out every meal. Like many visitors here, I also like to choose a new way of being in Mexico — I actually prepare most of my own meals! Most mornings, I can be found in my little outdoor kitchen spending an hour chopping tender papayas (with tiny limes, of course), juicy pineapple and the freshest bananas. Lunch is often guacamole or egg salad. Dinner shows up randomly.
Three times a week, on this remote, three-mile long stretch of beach, the produce man drives up to offer his treasures (he’s breaking in a new assistant this week, not nearly as sharp as the last young man). Unlike most seaside pueblos, Troncones is historically an agricultural village, with fishing a much more minor pursuit. He always has the freshest frutas y verduras (the eggs!) and sometimes surprises me with broccoli and romaine lettuce.
Of course going out to eat is really fun, too, especially when someone’s mama’s ristorante is having their weekly special of pozole or chili relleno and meatballs (uh huh). It’s cheap to eat out, too, with amazing offerings of chicken mole, steak fajitas (did I mention I’m not vegetarian?), authentic enchiladas. And they’re so very grateful for the business.
There are about a dozen little Mexican restaurants in town this year (with more sprouting up all the time). And three fancier, gringo places. What’s interesting about this is that they often have no one in them. Or maybe two couples in a place that could fit 40. I can only guess that the leftovers stash impressively feeds entire extended families.
Tourism is down this year (well, none of you are here, right?). Some say it’s all the press about scary people (let’s review: who gains from this fearmongering?). Some say its the scary economy. There are lots of lovely, empty places to eat and stay. So many beachside homes are for sale (actually, everything’s for sale), yet some Americans/Canadians have been here for 20 years. The gringos all gather at Cafe Sol for breakfast (and french-pressed coffee) to share the latest gossip and tips for living or building in MX.
It’s beautiful, warm, friendly — and the food is great. Think I’ll stay another month.